![]() ![]() We have used a tilt-shift lens on occasions, the Canon 90mm TS/E, but we limit the use to items that would require at most 3 image stacks - pendants, certain earrings. Export it with your favorite software, in our case, we recommend Capture One Pro, and then open the sequence in Helicon Focus, press the start button, you're done! We basically start the sequence by focusing on the front-most part of the image, and with each shot, focus a little further into the image, until we reach the back. Focus stacking is easy, anybody can do it really. To some of you it might seem not cost-effective, but take it from me, we shoot thousands of images a year for print and web catalogs, nevermind magazine ads and trade-show displays. Outside of using View Cameras with bellows, there's no way to achieve this effect. It's proved itself faster and more reliable than the equivalent in Photoshop. We use Helicon Focus exclusively at the studio. Additional sharpening in Photoshop improves the images a little best kitchen knives - but those affected by diffraction, win nothing in my opinion.ĩ photos that were stacked together, rending everything sharp.įor jewelry photography, or really, any macro photography where DoF is a must, focus stacking is the way to go for ultimate sharpness. Note: only a little sharpening was done in Capture One Pro. The following is an example of DoF vs Defraction as applied to jewellery photography. Have you seen a sudden decrease in sharpness in your images? Well, that’s diffraction at work. Therefore you tend to shoot at around f11-f16, some even f22 or higher. Any of you who’ve shot flowers or insects, heck even jewelry since you are reading this, know that unless you stop-down your lens quite a bit, you will not get enough of your subject in-focus. When working in the macro world, DoF is quite shallow. When photographing jewelry, you are using a macro lens and usual some extension tubes. When you begin stopping down say at f8 to f25, the diffracted light is initially a small percentage of the total light that hits your sensor, but gradually, it becomes a larger percentage of the light recorded. To explain this, the edges of the diaphragm blades in your lens disperse light. Every lens out there suffers this, it’s called “diffraction”. After a certain point, every lens starts to loose overall sharpness, to the point of looking blurry. What I want to cover today is that many of you out there are somewhat unaware of the limits of stopping-down a lens. Therefore to compensate, we stop-down the lens, going from f2.8 to say f5.6, f8, f11… etc. For example, a lens shooting at f2.8, which is quite open, means the lens’ iris is nearly wide open, letting in lots of light – the image will have a very shallow DoF. ![]() In most cases, the lens and camera are perfectly fine, but the user has done some serious mistakes with how his camera’s setting have been adjusted.Īs many of you know, stopping-down a lens, or in human-like analogy, squinting your eyes when you want to see “sharper”, gives you more depth-of-field (DoF). I sometimes receive less than ideal jewelry items to retouch where the focus is extremely limited, or everything is soft as though Vaseline was smudged over the picture. Having some blurred stones or portions is often frowned upon unless it’s quite deliberately done and for an artistic purpose. ![]() In jewelry photography, most of the time we need to make sure everything is pin sharp. Joe brings that same passion to How-To Geek.The area within the red square is show below at various apertures and focus stacked. If something piques his interest, he will dive into it headfirst and try to learn as much as possible. Outside of technology, Joe is an avid DIYer, runner, and food enthusiast. After several years of jailbreaking and heavily modifying an iPod Touch, he moved on to his first smartphone, the HTC DROID Eris. He got his start in the industry covering Windows Phone on a small blog, and later moved to Phandroid where he covered Android news, reviewed devices, wrote tutorials, created YouTube videos, and hosted a podcast.įrom smartphones to Bluetooth earbuds to Z-Wave switches, Joe is interested in all kinds of technology. He has written thousands of articles, hundreds of tutorials, and dozens of reviews.īefore joining How-To Geek, Joe worked at XDA-Developers as Managing Editor and covered news from the Google ecosystem. Joe loves all things technology and is also an avid DIYer at heart. He has been covering Android and the rest of the Google ecosystem for years, reviewing devices, hosting podcasts, filming videos, and writing tutorials. Joe Fedewa has been writing about technology for over a decade. ![]()
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